UNPUBLISHED - HOLIDAY IN SCOTLAND
One of the best things about having children is being able to revisit places we loved as kids. Just as digging out favourite books and toys can evoke strong memories of childhood, so returning to family holiday spots can throw you straight back to long, free summers, adventures and hidden treasures.
So it was that we chose Royal Deeside, close to the Scottish Cairngorm mountains, for our half-term break: I spent almost every summer and Christmas there, staying with my grandparents in the tiny village of Braemar . With just five weeks to go until our third child was due it seemed like a last chance to (slowly) climb some hills, camp beside lochs and generally get away from it all.
More sensible people would have taken the "fly-drive" option which as been made much easier thanks to the low-cost airlines flying regularly to Aberdeen and Glasgow . From Aberdeen it's a beautiful 1 ½ hour car journey on to Braemar, and from Glasgow you're looking at about 3 - 4 hours depending on your cornering skills: the last 30 miles are somewhat hilly and bendy, and if you end up behind a caravan you've really had it!
We opted to drive the whole way from Cambridge , partly because we are used to that sort of long drive but mainly because this enabled us to bring our bikes and child-seats along too. I have a golden rule for car journeys with young children: do as much as you can while they're asleep. I remember seemingly endless games of I spy, Motorway Bingo and Spot the New Car Registration, and promised myself I would never inflict such tedium on my own children.
I was less convinced of this strategy when we set off at 4am, but when I realised we were through the often traffic-jammed Lake District by mid-morning, all was forgiven. We even discovered a nice motorway service station (swoon). Tebay, near junction 38 of the M6 not only has a small lake with ducks and fish, but there is also an indoor play area where the kids got a much-needed run-around.
From this point on the scenery really changed: gone were the bleak, grey flatlands of the Midlands , and suddenly there were hills, valleys and trees. Don't be fooled, though, when passing the "Welcome to Scotland " sign at Gretna Green - Scotland is a big country, and there's still a long way to go the Highlands . It's only when Glasgow , Stirling and Perth are well behind that excitement of the holiday can start to kick in.
If you're needing another place for leg-stretching, petrol or more chocolate to keep the kids happy, then a good option is Blairgowrie. It's the last town before the climb into the mountains, there are great bakeries and the petrol is still reasonable. It also has a big Tesco's, and, if you're self-catering, it's a good idea to stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables here: while it's not quite "neeps and tatties" from here on, good fresh fruit is still considered a luxury in the Highlands . This is usually where I start to miss my skinny, decaf cappuccinos, but surely I can go without for a week?
The last 30 miles took us along some very bendy, steep roads and past the ski resort of Glenshee. The strongest childhood memories this evokes for me is of feeling and being sick. "Oh look, that's where I was sick on my doll's hair. And that's where I was nearly sick on Grandad!" These days I always drive and we all managed to arrive in Braemar with our lunch still intact.
Braemar is the highest inhabited village in the UK and is just 8 miles from Balmoral Castle , where members of the royal family spend their summer holidays. Queen Victoria attended the Braemar Highland Games in 1848 and liked all the caber-tossing, highland dancing and hammer-throwing so much she became a Patron. Ever since then people have come from all over the world to watch spectacle and wave at the Queen. It's worth trying to visit during the week of the Games (always the first Saturday in September), but book accommodation early and be prepared to share the village with over 10,000 other visitors -quite a change from the quiet atmosphere that greeted us.
To our delight (and surprise) the sky was cloudless, so we left everything in suitcases at my parents' house, where we would be staying, and went to enjoy the sunshine. Even if the weatherman promises sun all week, if it comes out you have to get out too! Mountain weather is very changeable and too far from London for them to care too much about accuracy, let's be honest.
The girls wanted to go to the duck pond at the top of Chapel Brae, so off we went. This is when we discovered that living in East Anglia leaves children with no hill-walking muscles. After much moaning and cajoling we reached the top and the kids were delighted to find ducks who were really hungry and appreciative, rather than overfed by Cambridge tourists. From here we ventured further up the road until it became a steep, stony track. Would our children cope with such terrain?
Luckily the combination of rabbits, deer, grouse, heather and wild flowers had them so enchanted that even our die-hard urbanites strode happily on to the Indicator Point at the top. The view of the snow-capped Cairngorms is stunning from here, and I felt a huge sense of achievement as both children stared in amazement at the alien landscape. Who needs TV, glittery hairbands and the latest Disney sticker book now?
Day two brought more sunshine and the first good night's sleep in living memory - the mountain air really wipes children out! Feeling on a bit of a roll where hills were concerned, we thought we'd have another go an incline, and walk up Craig Coinnich, the small, round hill overlooking the village. A perfect start for budding mountaineers, it's an easy hour's walk on a well-marked and well-kept path, through a forest and then above the tree-line to the top. It's a tradition to carry a small stone from the bottom and add it to the cairn (big pile of such stones) at the summit. Our progress might have been a little faster if Phoebe hadn't insisted on carrying a rock half her own weight. We didn't quite make it without several piggy-backs, but the girls' delight at having climbed their first mountain and the amazing view of both Braemar and the valley on the other side made up for any back ache. Ben Nevis here we come.
True to form the sun had the next day off, so off we went for some indoor fun at the Hilton Craigendarroch Country Club, 9 miles East. The drive takes you past Balmoral Castle and the Queen's church at Crathie, and both are worth a look in. The Hotel offers some great accommodation and facilities, and even if you're not staying there, £70 gets you use of the Club's facilities, including swimming pools, sauna, squash court, gym and beauty salon. After all the travelling and mountain climbing I treated myself to an excellent Carins Paris Method facial (all in the name of thorough research of course) while Harry and the girls went wild going down the water slide and swimming in the beautiful pool. Just a mile down the road is the lovely town of Ballater , where we had lunch. Almost every shop has a "By appointment to Her Majesty" crest over the door - I guess most of Balmoral's supplies are bought here - and in the summer months it's not uncommon to see royalty popping into the bakery or one of the many antique shops. There's not really much to do in Ballater, but there are some nice art galleries and souvenir shops, and it's a really friendly place.
Having brought the bikes all this way, we thought our last day should involve a cycle and walk, so off we went to Loch Callater. This was always my favourite walk as a child, because it is almost totally FLAT!! Starting a few miles South of Braemar at Auchallater, we cycled along the pretty good track along a picture-postcard river with pools and falls. A game of Pooh-sticks kept our young passengers happy about half way there, and then it was on to the loch itself. There are quite a few tiny, sandy beaches and we built a camp-fire on one of these to heat the tins of ravioli and beans - oh the luxury! This was a huge hit with the children, who seemed to think we were on some kind of Swallows and Amazons type of adventure and collected tons of driftwood and dry heather for the fire. I should mention that fires need to be VERY carefully controlled, as they can easily spread out of control across the whole hillside. I'm sure the kids would be impressed, but it's generally frowned upon by everyone else.
After a final visit to the village sweet-shop (where you can still get sweets for a penny!) we packed up and started the long drive back to the rat-race - refreshed, rejuvenated and with a healthy, mountain-air glow.
HOTELS in BRAEMAR
Invercauld Arms Hotel: 013397 41605 4 nights from £140 pp HB. Under 3s free
Callater Lodge Hotel: 013397 41275 £24 pp per night in October
Fife Arms Hotel: 013397 41644 Gathering weekend special: £165 pp includes Friday and Saturday night, dinner, B&B and seat at the Gathering. Children 5 - 12 half price, under 5 pay for food and Gathering ticket only. Normal rate for October: £25 pp B&b. Kids £12.
ACTIVITIES
GOLF: The highest 18 hole course in Britain is a great challenge for even the most advanced player. Prepare to lose a lot of balls! Braemar Golf Club: 013397 41618
PUTTING: The Games Park has 18 holes to practise putting - it's a great way to get kids interested in the game, without the hassle of a proper round of golf. Just turn up, pop 20p in the tin (this includes clubs and balls!) and off you go.
SKIING: Skiing in Scotland , while sporadic, can be as good as anywhere in the world - just pray for some snow.
Glenshee Ski Centre: 013397 41320
The Lecht Ski Centre (25 miles North of Braemar): 01975 651 440
BIKE HIRE: Braemar Mountain Sports: 013397 41242 have mountain bikes, while at Wheelin' Around in Ballater you can hire bikes, child seats and trailers. Tel: 013397 55864
PONY TREKKING: Feel like a princess for a day by pony trekking around the Balmoral Estate. Tel: 013397 42334. Website: www.royal-deeside.org.uk